The Barong Tagalog [Part 2 of 2 series]

The Clearing Point

R. CHAM G. ZUÑIGA VI, Ll.B., MLGM, Ph.D.

The Barong Tagalog

[Part 2 of 2 series]

Long time before the Spaniards came to the Philippine, the Tagalog people on the northern island of Luzon, already wore a dress that can be seen as the origin of the Barong Tagalog. The Barong Tagalog or simply barong, derived from the word baro, is an embroidered formal garment of which the Filipinos are known. It is very soft, lightweight and worn untucked over an undershirt. It is a commonly used during formal occasions.

There were several theories explaining why the Filipinos used Barong Tagalog during the Spanish Era. One historical details say that during the Spanish era, the authorities required the Indios (the word used to described the subject of Spain – referring to the Filipino people) to use Barong, a dress made of flimsy material so that any concealment of weapons in their body could easily be detected. During the Spanish era (1561-1889) the Barong Tagalog was required by the Spanish Government for Indios to be worn most of the times to show the disparity of the rich and the poor. The poor who served the rich were required to be always in uniform. Moreover, since Barong is to be used untucked, it connotes a designation of a low rank in the society.

However, sociologists stand against this theory pointing out that untucked wear was very common in south-east Asian countries. Also the use of a thin dress to describe Barong Tagalog is natural to a country like the Philippines given the climate that is tempestuous, hot and humid. Also, sociologists noted that during the Spanish regime, there was no specific law specifically directing the use of Barong by Filipinos exclusively. It may be noted that there were some natives of the island that wore shirts tucked at times.

Another theory had it that barong was a local adaptation or a precursor to a popular shirt in the Latin-American communities called guayabera. The guayabera is a men's shirt popular in Latin America, the Caribbean, Southeast Asia, the West Indies, and Zimbabwe. It is also known as "Mexican Wedding Shirt”.

Why is it that the barong is tucked out? One explanation says that it is because of the tropical climate of the Philippines. However, the historical explanation says that the Barong Tagalog traces its roots in the Spanish-colonial era. The Spaniards wanted differences in their identities and that of the 'natives'. They required the wearing of Barong Tagalog how prohibited tucking it under the waistband. Moreover, they required that the cloth material should be transparent.

Barong Tagalog appeals to many whether high or low-key personalities. As others put it, it speaks volumes of a heritage that spanned decades of multi-cultural influences and raw patriotism. This is probably why it is naturally worn with pride and dignity. For whenever one don a Barong Tagalog, he is not just carrying a style, but wears a legacy. As an abogado de campanilla, you cannot afford not to wear the Barong Tagalog when arguing a case in the Philippine courts.

How Barong Tagalog has come to be the Philippine National Costume? How did it evolved from a simple wear to an elaborated handicraft that it is now? Here are little known facts about the Barong Tagalog.

Before the discovery of Philippines, the Tagalog speaking people of Luzon wore a sleeveless doublet of rough cotton extending slightly below the waist, which they called Baro. It is collarless and opens in the front.

During the 18th century, the handkerchief was made as an accessory to the baro. Contrary to some beliefs that it was worn untucked to designate a low-profile in the society, the real reason was to show off the hand woven embroidery for others to admire and appreciate.

During the Spanish era, the Indios, who were rich and powerful were the only ones allowed to use Barong with shoes and hats. They were neither allowed to tuck in their baro nor were they allowed to have any pockets. It is to distinguish them from the Spanish rulers.

In the 19^th century, hand-woven embroidery on the chest of the baro was introduced. Some modifications on the designed particularly on the collar was introduced.

After World War II, the Filipinos modifying the Barong Tagalog as a matter of rebuild the independence created an identity for the Philippines as nation. They added an inner pocket on the left side and making the length shorter. Some of the designs depicted Philippine scenes to instill patriotism.

Several other modifications on the Barong Tagalog were seen through the years. We now have the polo barong which refers to a short-sleeved version of the barong. The "gusot-mayaman" and linen barongs are generally considered less formal than the Barong Tagalog. They are used for everyday office wear. The shirt-jack barong is the barong cut in shirt-jack style. This is the modified barong worn during campaigns of the politicians or out-in-the-field assignments of government workers.

The birth of the barong into Philippine history began as a status of inferiority of the Indios during the Spanish era. However, today the purpose of a barong has evolved into a garment of independence and pride. It expressed the desire for freedom of the Filipino people and it was made through the development of innovative design and styles. It has revolutionized Filipino fashion and has expanded to styles of different types. It also depicts of the iconic symbol of fine craftsmanship of the people long time ago called Indios.

(for feedback, the author may be reached at chamzun@gmail.com)